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Showing posts with label 3D Printing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 3D Printing. Show all posts

Friday, November 8, 2019

3D Printed Stands for Google Home Minis (Andy & ED209 Mech from RoboCop)

We have a few Google Home units spread throughout the house.  A few with screens, and in the kids bedrooms the smaller "Mini" speakers.  The kiddos love to play music on them, and set their alarms for school. As a family, we also use them for an intercom system to get everyone's attention in the house, no matter what room they are in.


The units themselves are pretty simple.  Basically a speaker + mic, with a touch sensitive surface to control playback and volume if not using your voice. Although they look just fine sitting on a nightstand or dresser, my kids wanted an upgrade.  Time to start up the 3D Printer!



Found 2 files on Thingaverse that would work perfectly. For my oldest daughter, Andy the Android giving a cute wave.  She actually picked this one out, and the end result looks great. The other file was a bit more complicated both the print and assemble (not to mention paint). My son loves Legos and robots, so when we saw the ED209 Mech from the 1980s RoboCop movie, it was the perfect fit for his bedroom.  I very much underestimated just how large this model was... but 48 hours later, all the parts had been printed out.


As can be seen below, there is a mix of colors here... since I was going to paint this model, decided I would use up a few random spools of filament that were taking up space and almost on their way out.


I did have to split a few of the larger parts in half when printing, otherwise there would have been far too many supports to deal with.  After printing those parts, just glued the halves together, and then started the priming process. 


Small woodworking clamps come in really handy at this stage.  For the glue, I go with E6000 Craft Adhesive for these types of projects.  It takes a bet to set, but once it does, locks in very tight, and is semi-flexible which is really nice since kids might be playing with this stand. Get glue that is too rigid, and you will find your parts coming apart with even the slightest bend.  E6000 is the way to go.  Here is an Amazon Link for a 3.7oz bottle.


With everything assembled, it is time to start priming. This is a very important step for two reasons.
1) Primier will help cover up any small imperfections that may result from difficult areas to print
2) Painting directly on top of PLA or PETG will result in poor adhesion and the paint will eventually start to flake off.  Get some good primer and go to town. 

You can use any sand-able primer found at your local hardware store for a print of this size, and probably be OK.  I personally like to use primer from "Army Painter" as is goes on very thin, and covers really well.  A thinner coat will ensure that you don't cover up any detail on the model while still prepping the surface for the paint. 


The Army Painter spray on primers are primarily made for tabletop miniatures (which is what I originally purchased it for), but is did really well with this larger model as well.  I highly recommend it for these types of applications. Here is an Amazon link if you want to give it a try.


With the priming complete, I brought out the Airbrush and began to lay down some nice base coats.  With the base applied, I switched over to my brushes and started some of the detail work and accent coloring.  After the colors were all applied, went back over the entire model again with a matte clear coat to protect the paint.  Really pleased with how it turned out, and my son was super excited when he saw it looking over he bed from the dresser.







After these 2 stands were completed, my youngest 2 daughters were not going to be left out of the fun!  They wanted the "Andy" as well, but went with a transparent purple for the body color. Looks great in their room,, but its going to be a challenge for them to keep from touching this little guy!



These were a lot of fun to print out and paint.  My kids really enjoy them, and hope fully they will have them for a long time (if they can keep their hands off).

Here is a quick video I put together that shows much of what I explained above. Thanks for stopping by!


Monday, October 2, 2017

Prusa i3 MK2s 3D Printer Upgrade Timelapse Video

I have been planning on upgrading my Prusa i3 MK2 to the MK2s version for a while now.  After the MK2s was annouced, I set forth to get the required components. Most of the 3D Printed parts were readily available on the Prusa web site, but I also found a few upgrades (Aaron Yourk's TinkerCAD page) that I wanted to include this time around. Here is a full list of what I decided to modify.
  • Upgraded MK2s Extruder Assembly with Cable Chain adapter
  • New E3D V6 Hotend (last one was pretty messy)
  • Upgrade to 40mm Noctua Extruder Fan and housing
  • Upgraded Cable Chain for Extruder Cables
  • New Y-Axis frame helper to keep things square
  • New Misumi Bearings
  • New Misumi Hardened Rods
Here is a pic of the current MK2.  Has been operational for around 7 months, and prints really well. Very happy with it, but I know from user feedback better bearings and rods will make for quieter operation and possibly allow for faster print times.  


I have a bunch of picture following the process, but if you are just interested in the timelapse video, jump to the bottom of the post.  For anyone interested in the Misumi parts, here is what I purchased:



Here we have all the  parts that will go into the upgrade. Anything around the extruder where it will get hot were printed in ABS, the rest are PLA. 


Here is a close up of the parts.


First step was to take apart the existing printer and start assembling the new frame. The upgraded Y-Axis front and back make the entire process much easier, and there is no room for error as it keeps everything nice and square. This is a great upgrade because getting the frame perpendicular was a real challenge with my first Prusa i3. 


With the frame assembled, I got to work on the X-Axis components and extruder assembly. Most of this would be stock components aside from the new 40mm Noctua Fan and Fan Guards. 


Went through the process of attaching the extruder assembly to the X-Axis and leaving the cables behind, awaiting the addition of the cable chain.  As mentioned before I decided to install a new V6 Hotend, as the last one was pretty messy after a few print failures that caused the filament to backup. 


Same but from the front. 


Here is a shot from the back showing the cable chain.  I actually added a few more links (24 total) than what are shown in this picture after testing operation and determining I needed more for it to not bind during certain points of movement. 


Here we have the fully assembled printer in a side by side comparison withe the previous MK2 configuration. I think the Black / Blue color combo looks a lot better. 


Went through the initial calibration process, and we are Perpendicular after the first try!  Last time it took me a while to get here, so the upgraded parts are already doing their part in saving me time. 


Here is a pic of everything put back into the print Enclosure, ready to start printing. 


My very first print was the TreeFrog Gcode found on the SD Card.  It printed well, so I moved on to some "functional parts". Below can be seen a few parts that will go towards upgrading my Quad Racing Drone. Turned out perfect. Print quality is excellent, and operation is a bit more quiet. 


Very happy overall with how the upgrade turned out, and was also able to capture the entire process with my Nikon D5600 in a Timelapse video. Check it out below. 
























Monday, September 25, 2017

DeathTrooper (3D Printed) Storm Trooper, IWI Tavor, and Tannerite

For this project, I had a chance to collaborate a bit with my brother and his buddies at their YouTube channel, How2Man

I have an IWI SAR Tavor, which is a really fun 5.56 bullpup rifle, and thought it would be great to showcase this weapon for this collaboration video, and use it to destroy a 3D printed object using Tannerite.



I found an excellent STL of a DeathTrooper online, which is basically a Storm Trooper helmet that shows a bit of battle damange, and the skull inside.  I increased the size of the print to better allow for us to fill it with around 2lbs of Tannerite.



The entire print took around 36 hours to complete, and once done looked absolutely AWESOME!  I was almost sad that we were going to blow it up... almost.





I added a tad of acrylic paint to make the skull more noticeable. Also drilled a small hole in the bottom of the helmet so we could pour tannerite into the hollow portion.



Here is a short video showing the print and a 3D Render of the object.



And here is a longer video showing the process we went through to fill the helmet and detonate it using the Tavor. There is some cool slow-motion in addition from some drone video from my 3DR Solo. Enjoy!




Solar Eclipse Pics & Celestron Telescope Filter (3D Printed)

The August Solar Eclipse was an amazing event. Luckily for us, we were only a short 3 hours away from Totality.



In addition to watching the eclipse with my family, I wanted to use my telescope to better see the the event. I have a Celestron NexStar 127STL, which is roughly a 5in Maksutov-Cassegrain. I was surprised after looking on Amazon and B&H Photo, in the lack of available slide-on filters for this size of telescope. So I set off to design my own.

The most important part of this “make” is the ability to block out the harsh brightness of the sun, so I grabbed an appropriate sized solar film. I found a 6in x 6in film on Amazon for around $15.

With that selected, I set out on the slide on filter design. It consists of 2 parts.

  • Primary cap to slide over end of telescope and hold the film
  • Secondary ring to hold film against the larger cap 

Pretty simple to create after measuring the telescope and creating the initial design in SketchUp. I also chose to add some clips to the outer cap to keep the inner ring snug against the cap, therefore keeping the film in place.



With the design completed I printed the two parts, and cut the film to fit inside the outer cap. The print came out great, and for perfectly over the 127STL.








Problem is, this was printed in PLA and I was worried that the hour leading up to the eclipse, would be too hot for the PLA to handle. Reprinted both parts in ABS.

With the final print completed, we drove to St Anthony, ID and set up camp. We were part of a sizeable viewing party, And I began taking photos with my camera about an hour before the eclipse actually started, and let people come up and see the sun in all it's filtered glory in the telescope. Sun Spots were easily visible.







The eclipse began, and a hushed silence and twilight darkness was ushered in as Totality approached. Once we hit full totally, I pulled the filter off, and was a amazed at the detail that was visible,especially the colorful corona  around the eclipsed sun. In person it was amazing, but I wasn't able to really capture it with my DSLR or through the telescope with my phone. I decided to stop messing with it, and just enjoy Totality with my family.



After the event, we drove home and I began to sort through the photos. After minimal editing, I had a pretty good “Timelapse” of the eclipse process.



Here is a modified pictures with the key eclipse phases placed next to each other.


Overall the print worked perfectly, and I will hold onto it for future Sun viewing. Also want to invest in a better camera mount for better pictures, and will be sure to post an update once I have something to show.

Not really eclipse related, but I was able to get some pretty good long exposure shots the night before.


Thanks for stopping by!


Sunday, March 26, 2017

3D Printing - OctoPi Setup with 7in PiTFT Touchscreen LCD

OctoPrint is a great companion for any 3D printer.  I used it with my Monoprice Mini, and now with the Original Prusa i3 MK2. The web based interface works great, but I wanted a way to monitor the prints both when I am away from the house, and a way to just check on the status on the print in passing. I will show both the physical assembly process and how I set up all the settings within the Pi and OctoPrint to work for me.  Also working on a video walkthrough that I will post at the end of this post when completed. 

I had seen a few examples on of the OctoPrint interface running on a 3.5in TFT display.  I already had one of those screens, so I gave it a try.  


























I got it working, but found the touch display too small to really be of much use, so decided to jump to a larger version.  Went with the official Raspberry Pi 7in TFT display.  Here is an Amazon link


There are plenty of enclosures available for this screen that also allow you to mount the Pi on the back, but I found some 3D printed plans that looked a bit nicer, and the fact that I could make my own with customized colors was a plus!  Here is the link to the one I made, and some pictures of the assembly process. 








Now that everything is put together, here is the step by step guide that I made to get everything up and running. I pieced this together from various sets "how-to" documentation, as they all seemed to not have all the info I needed, or missing some step that was causing the setup to not work for me. 


OctoPi Setup with 7in PiTFT Touchscreen LCD

Part 1: Install & Setup OctoPi
  • Download Image and burn to MicroSD Card using Win32 Disk Imager or Etcher
  • Once image is burnt to card access the following files in the boot directory to modify configuration of the OctoPi
    • octopi-network.txt
      • Remove the "#" from the follwoing 3 lines, and add your network info
      • ## WPA/WPA2 secured
        iface wlan0-octopi inet manual
            wpa-ssid "put SSID here"
            wpa-psk "put password here
    • octopi.txt
      • Modify these settings for your specific webcam. These settings for for the Logitech C615
      • Remove the "#" from the following line and change settings to match your camera
      • camera_usb_options="-r 1280x720 -f 25"
    • config.txt
      • An update has been pushed to Raspbian to flip the screen ( rotate it by 180 degrees ) for a better desktop viewing angle. This makes it upside-down in our stand and the official Pi stand, so you'll need to change a setting to flip it back. To do this, open /boot/config.txt in your favourite editor and add the line:
      • lcd_rotate=2
      • This will rotate both the LCD and the touch coordinates back to the right rotation for our display stand
  • Assemble the Raspberry Pi
    • Insert MicroSD card into Pi, Connect TFT Display, Keyboard, and HDMI Display, then boot up device
    • Once device boots up and launches the Console, enter default user credentials
      • Username: pi
      • Password: raspberry
    • obtain IP address
      • ifconfig

  • Enter the IP address found with ifconfig into your web browser to launch the OctoPrint web Interface
  • Complete Setup Wizard on Web Interface and establish log-in credentials
    • Username: XXXXXXXXX
    • Password: XXXXXXXXX
  • Import CURA slicing profile if desired, for the Prusa i3 MK2 I am using, head here:
  • Install Plugins
    • Settings > Plugin Manager
      • Automatic Shutdown
      • STL Viewer
      • TouchUI
  • Add the Prusa i3 as the Default printer with the following parameters 


    • Settings > Serial Connection
      • Serial Port > Auto (
      • Baudrate > 115200
    • Save Settings
  • Verify WebCam feed is working
    • Go to "Control" tab to verify you see the streaming image from your webcam
    • Go to Settings > Webcam & Timelapse > Stream URL
      • Use the "Test" button to verify everything is working properly
      • Also test the "Snapshot URL" 
      • Save Settings
  • Update the instance of OctoPi if update is available
    • Reboot the system once update is complete


Part 2: Configure PiTFT Touchscreen LCD
  • You may need to provide yourself root access first
    • sudo passwd
    • change root password to something you will remember
    • To gain SuperUser access
    • su
  • From the Command line, update the database of available software
    • sudo apt-get update
      sudo apt-get upgrade
  • Once update is complete, shutdown system
    • sudo shutdown -h now
    • Power on sytem and verify the the Touchscreen is working and the display is the correct orientation
  • If desired, access the Raspberry Pi Configuration screen and change the default password to something more secure
    • sudo raspi-config

Part 3: Setup: Boot to Browser (for OctoPi or Jessie Light)
  • **NOTE** This section will be easier to complete if you access your PI via SSH using Putty
  • From the piTFT screen, enter in user credentials and elevate to SU if needed
    • sudo apt-get update
      sudo apt-get install --no-install-recommends xinit xinput xserver-xorg xserver-xorg-video-fbdev x11-xserver-utils matchbox unclutter chromium-browser
      sudo nano /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/99-fbdev.conf
  • Enter this information into the file if using an offical Pi Touchscreen
    • Section "Device"
       Identifier "touchscreen"
       Driver "fbdev"
       Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb0"
      EndSection
    • If using an HDMI display, chang to "fb1"
  • Save and exit (CTR-O, Enter, and CTR-X)
  • Allow X11 to run as anybody
    • sudo sed -i 's/allowed_users=console/allowed_users=anybody/' /etc/X11/Xwrapper.config
      git clone https://github.com/BillyBlaze/OctoPrint-TouchUI-autostart.git ~/TouchUI-autostart/
  • Copy Service File and Register
    • sudo cp ~/TouchUI-autostart/touchui.init /etc/init.d/touchui
      sudo chmod +x /etc/init.d/touchui
      sudo cp ~/TouchUI-autostart/touchui.default /etc/default/touchui
      sudo update-rc.d touchui defaults
  • Test Kernel
    • chromium-browser
  • If browser doesn't launch we need to upgrade the Kernel and the Chromium Install
    • Only Do this if Launching Browser didn't work
    • Update Chromium
      • sudo apt-get update
        wget -qO - http://bintray.com/user/downloadSubjectPublicKey?username=bintray | sudo apt-key add -
        echo "deb http://dl.bintray.com/kusti8/chromium-rpi jessie main" | sudo tee -a /etc/apt/sources.list
        sudo apt-get update

        sudo apt-get install chromium-browser
    • Update Kernel
      • sudo apt-get upgrade
        sudo apt-get install rpi-update
        sudo rpi-update
        sudo reboot
  • You may have to run the steps before updating Chromium and Kernel again for TouchUI to AutoBoot
  • System should now  boot automatically to the TouchUI web interface of OctoPrint


Part 4: Setup Remote Print Access
  • Reserve (These steps are for my ASUS Router, but should be similar for most brands)
    • From Router UI go to LAN > DHCP Server
      • Reserve the desired Local IP address for the Raspberry Pi
        • 192.168.1.123
    • Head to WAN > Virtual Server / Port Forwarding
      • Enable port forwarding for both OctoPrint and SSH
        • Octoprint Port: 80
        • SSH Port: 22
        • Both will use the OctoPi's IP Address


  • No-IP
    • Set up your Dynamic DDNS
      • ZaneXXXXXXXX.ddns.net
      • 97.117.XXX.XXX
    • Open the Console or SSH and type the following
      • mkdir /home/pi/noip
        cd /home/pi/noip
    • AfterAfter creating the folders for the DUC it is time to download the software.
    • Within the Terminal window type the following. After each entry you will press “Enter”.
      • wget http://www.no-ip.com/client/linux/noip-duc-linux.tar.gz
        tar vzxf noip-duc-linux.tar.gz
    • Next navigate to the directory you created to locate the downloaded files.
      • cd noip-2.1.9-1
    • Now install the program
      • sudo make
        sudo make install
    • After typing “sudo make install” you will be prompted to login with your No-IP account username and password.
      • UserName
      • Password
    • After logging into the DUC answer the questions to proceed. When asked how often you want the update to happen you must choose 5 or more. The interval is listed in minutes, if you choose 5 the update interval will be 5 minutes. If you choose 30 the interval will be 30 minutes.
      • sudo /usr/local/bin/noip2
    • To confirm that the service is working properly you can run the following command.
      • sudo noip2 -S
        • Must be a Capital "S"


    • To ensure that it will run on Start Up
      • sudo noip2 -S
      • Add the following below the "fi" line and above "exit 0"
        • /usr/local/bin/noip2

      • Save and exit the file
      • Now check to see if the process is already running or not
        • sudo /usr/local/bin/noip2 -S
      • Upon reboot, it should run the service
  • Setup /  Upkeep
    • Make sure passwords on all devices and routers are secure
    • If you don't want to update the NoIP every month, pay $25 for an annual setup



Here is a video I put together showing the TouchUI in action along with a companion app for Android called "Printoid" that has a nicer UI, but still works off of OctoPrint.