Friday, February 10, 2017

Raspberry Pi (RetroPie) Old Skool Case LED Mod

As is apparent with my TableTop Arcade build, I really like turning Raspberry Pi micro computers into Retro Gaming systems.  I also have some smaller systems that just plug directly into a TV.  Recently found a case that is a perfect fit for these types of systems.

Old Skool NES case for Raspberry Pi 3



Its a really nice looking case, and fits with the Retro Gaming theme perfectly.  Very simple install, and everything lines up as it should. The only gripe I had,  was there is a small hole next to the fake power buttons, that would typically be a power indicator.  The case has the hole, but no LED. So... time to MOD!


I have a bunch of small Red LEDs, so set to work figuring out how to connect it to the Pi, so it will light up when the system is powered on.  Here is the pin layout of a Pi 3. I decided to tie into the 5v & GND locations to power the LED. 


I first tested on a breadboard to verify which resistor I would need.  The  LED I am using requires input of 1.5-2v so I went with a 100 Ω + 5% resistor to step it down from 5v.  If you want the LED to be less bright, just use a larger resistor. I then used a hot glue gun to secure the LED to the case. 



With that done, powered it up, and it looks Great! Really pleased with how well it turned out.



Here is a quick video showing the boot up process, and the initial "Boot Video" I have setup on my system.





Saturday, January 14, 2017

PC Upgrade - Mounted System Stats Display

I have been running my current Custom PC setup for about 6 months, and for the most part, have been very pleased with everything.  The only issue I have faced, is the small display I mounted to show system stats has very poor viewing angles, making it hard to see from where I sit/stand.



I also have received more questions about that particular part of my system than any other post both on this blog and my YouTube channel. So I decided to upgrade that particular component, and archive the entire process.  In addition to the info on this post, I will also make an overview video and posts it at the bottom.

The previous display was a 9in LCD panel. The new one, is a Toguard 10.1 Inch IPS display.  Here is the Amazon Link.  It is almost twice the cost of the 9in one, but the panel quality is a LOT better, so worth it in my opinion.



Here is a picture from the back.  The 9in was a bit easier to mount as it had a camera/tripod mounting hole, that I secured it to the GPU bracket with.  This new display has no such mount, but does have 4 mounting holes on the back of the display.




From the bottom you can see the various connectors.  All I am concerned with are the 12V DC power port, and the HDMI input.




The front plastic made to look like brushed aluminum. I probably would have left it as is, if it weren't for the TOGUARD logo. So I covered just the front bezel with my Carbon Fiber Vinyl wrap.




I gave it a quick test before making the mounting bracket just to verify everything would work the way I needed it to.  Here we are showing connections from the PC to the Display.  Note the 12V DC  plug is coming directly from a 4pin Molex connection that I wired specifically to power this display.



The initial tests passed with flying colors.  Not yet mounted, but running CAM perfectly.  On to the mounting bracket construction.



To make the bracket, I grabbed some sheet metal that I had left over from another project.  I measured both the exterior dimensions and the location of the mounting screw holes.




Once I had everything marked, cut out the piece, drilled the holes, and used my bench vise to make a nice 90 degree bend to accommodate mounting the display under the GPU bracket.



To secure the display to the mounting bracket, I am using M4-7 socket cap screws, and a few washers.  The length was a bit too long, as the mounting holes were not very deep, so I used some nuts to shorten the length of the screws.



After everything was drilled, cut, and bent, added a few passes of black spray paint to match the color theme of the PC build.  Also shown here is the 6mm screw I used to secure the mounting plate to the GPU bracket.



Here is the hole I drilled in the GPU bracket.



And here is where the 6mm screw will go.




With the mounting plate secured the the GPU bracket, we can now attache the display.



Here is a shot from the back to show how the screws are securing the display to the case.



And a final shot from the front to show the new upgraded display installed and running CAM.



I will show in the video more detail on how to get the NZXT CAM Monitoring software up and running, but just for reference, here is what my displays look like, with this new on set up as the 4th monitor of my system. Desktop Screen Capture of all 4 monitor.



Here is the video.  If you have any questions be sure to hit me up in the comments. Thanks!












Tuesday, December 13, 2016

TableTop Arcade - Final Build Pics

Project Index


Final Build Pics

Thanks for sticking it out for the duration of the build log.  Here are the final build pics from various angles. 



Front


Side


Back


Thought it would also be appropriate to add some "in-action" pics as well.  On the left my 4yr old daughter playing "Bonk's Adventure", on the right my 7yr old son and some neighbor friends enjoying some multiplayer battles on "Golden Axe". 


I am going to put together a video walk-through of the cabinet, and hope to have it posted soon. Thanks for taking a look, and if you have any questions, hit me up in the comments below.


Sunday, November 27, 2016

TableTop Arcade - Wiring and Wrapping Up

Project Index


Button and Joystick Wiring

Almost done! Adding the buttons on top of the acrylic went pretty well, but I lost the use of 2 buttons. My measurements didn't account for the fact the bottom of the joystick is pretty deep, and it conflicted with one of the buttons.  Not a huge deal, as it was only to change "Save States", but still a bummer when things don't go as planned.  As can be seen below, using a plug in the hole since a button won't work. 



In an earlier post, I showed the USB Encoders that came with my Button kit.  All the gaming buttons worked great with the existing encoders, and most people would be perfectly fine with that kit.  My issue is they didn't allow for the use of "Admin" buttons which is what I was planning on using the 5 buttons on the front of the arcade cabinet for. So instead of losing the functionality of all those buttons, I decide to upgrade the USB Encoders to an Ultimarc I-PAC 2.  Also ordered a few wiring kits to go with it.  I could have done it myself, but saved myself a ton of time by just spending an extra $5 on the kits instead. 


Setup is pretty stright forward.  Each of the button switches has a ground terminal and a signal terminal. I ran a daisy-chained black wire as my ground between the buttons and back to the 1st pin on the IPAD "GND".  Then I ran the color wires from the signal terminals of the switches back to their corresponding pins on the IPAC. Player 1 controls are on the left, Player 2 controls on the right.  Bottom 1A, 1B, 2A, 2B are some of the "Admin" controls I mentioned earlier.  Scroll down a bit for a more detailed explanation and diagram of how I wired stuff together. 


This is a picture of the cabinet on its back, bottom facing out.  Although I have an access panel cut in the back to allow for quick changes, the amount of wiring I just did justified more space to work in. Cleaned everything up the best I could using Velcro ties and adhesive Velcro strips to mount the Raspberry PI and Power Strip. 


With all the wiring completed and the cabinet 95% put together, had to do a bit of work on the control configuration for the new USB Encoder.  The default settings worked fine for some gaming systems, but others were having a hard time as some of the action buttons were being seen as keyboard keys such as "Shift", "Ctrl", "Alt", etc.  Using the IPAC programming utility, I changed some of the pins to read as different keys that were more universally friendly, and made sure my admin buttons were set to function as I originally intended.  

Below is a screen shot of the Excel document I put together to help me sort out what needed to be changed, and verify that everything was matching up to where it should. 


With that completed, there will still be a few configuration items I will have to address due to the new USB Encoder for the actual gaming systems, but those are simple enough and I will take care of that at a later time. 


Finishing Touches


With all of the internal parts of the build taken care of, moving on to a few remaining items to close out the project.  The access panel was cut and painted already, but took the time to add a piano hinge and latch to the back.  


Since the innards are done, I also went ahead and attached the bottom to the arcade cabinet.  Didn't use glue or brad nails here, just small wood screws.  Screws were used so that I can easily access the wiring area if I ever had to made any large changes again, or repair anything that would be too difficult to get to via the access hatch. 


With that, the build is done!  Next post, FINAL BUILD PICs, and a video walk through of the completed cabinet. 

Friday, November 18, 2016

TableTop Arcade - Assembly, Electrical, and Painting

Project Index


    Assembly

    Now that all of our wood pieces have been cut out and prepped, its time to start putting this thing together!  This part was a bit more tricky than I had anticipated, and took a lot of trial and error to get everything to line up perfectly.  The idea is to use small wood "batons" to act as supports and stops for the various panels.

    The picture below shows how they are used to block the various panels into place.  The key is to stat with one side first, get everything lined up how you want it, and mark your joints.  Then mark those same joints on the other side before you start gluing or nailing anything down.  I used painters tape to hold everything together while testing out the fit of my markings just to be sure.



    After you have marked both sides, and are pleased with the fit, its time to secure everything to the panels. I used a combination of wood glue and brad nails. You can probably get away with just using wood glue, but with an air compressor, putting in a few brad nails for extra support is an easy task.



    Once all of the batons were secure and in place, its time to begin putting everything together. Starting with the monitor panel, I worked my way around the cabinet, gluing and clamping down the various pieces as can be seen below. If your measurements are good, everything will fit together neatly.  Keep things clamped together for at least a few hours before you move the cabinet.  I recommend letting it sit with the clamps on overnight.



    Electrical Wiring

    With the cabinet assembled and the glue drying, it went ahead and added the modular power inlet.  This using a standard computer / monitor power cable, which I then wired directly to a surge protected power strip.  


    Pretty simple to install, just cut a hole to fit, and after a bit of file work, made sure that it went in nice and snug. Don't screw it in yet, as we need to paint before securing this to the cabinet. 


    Once I was sure it could be mounted in the hole correctly, I started the wiring process.  I removed the wall plug end from the power strip and wired it to the inlet switch as shown below.  I chose to use female spade adapters instead of directly soldering the connections.  Note that there is more than one way to wire this switch, but the way shown here will allow the switch to light up when turned on. 




    Painting & T-Molding

    With the cabinet fully assembled and the glue dry, its time to paint!  I have seen people use cans of spray paint for this part, but this MDF really sucks up the paint, and you will go through a lot of cans of spray paint to cover properly.  My wife had recently painted all of our interior doors black using a sprayer, so I used the left over paint and her sprayer to take care of my paint job.  Would have done it outside, but the temperature has started to drop, so did it in the insulated garage, with some plastic protection applied.


    I gave the paint a solid 24 hours to dry before I moved the cabinet from the garage, back down to my project room.  With everything coated in a nice black finish, next step is to add the T-Molding.  I am using 3/4in T-molding to match the width of the side panels. Using a rubber mallet, I slowly worked my way around both sides.  When getting to a corner, I nipped a bit of the insert to make it easier to get flush corner bends as shown below. 


    Here we have a picture of everything painted black, and the T-Molding installed.  If you have seen any of my other projects, you will know that I am a bit fan of Black/Blue themes.  It looks great with the T-Molding installed against the black paint.  The T-Molding also served as protection for the edges of the MDF, and adds a bit of grip to the bottom keeping the cabinet from sliding around.


    With most of the exterior work completed, next step is to install the display. This was tricky due to the built in speakers this monitor has.  I'm not  planning on using the built-in speakers but they increase the length of the monitor enough that I couldn't mount it without conflicting with the controller board buttons. 

    The solution was to flip/rotate the display 180 degrees as shown below.  I used the existing VESA holes on the back of the LCD to mount a piece of pine to the back. Then used additional wood pieces to create a bracket, using glue and brad nails to keep everything secure. 


    And here it is, with the screen installed. As mentioned before, I had to rotate the display 180 degrees to make it work in this cabinet. Doing this on the Raspberry Pi is really easy, and here are the steps:
    • Plug in a USB keyboard and power on the Pi
    • Once EmulationStation has booted, hit F4 to launch the command console 
    • Type the following in the command line to edit the Configuration file:
      • sudo nano /boot/config.txt
    • Now add the following to the bottom of the configuration file and save:
      • display_rotate=2

    Go ahead and reboot, and the display will show right-side up (on your upside down screen)! If you ever need to revert back, setting display_rotate to 0 or deleting the line will set everything back to normal.






    Next up is the artwork and installing all of the buttons.

    Thursday, November 17, 2016

    TableTop Arcade - Cabinet Construction & Cutting

    Project Index


      Now that we have all the components selected, and figured out, its on to the actual construction of the cabinet unit.  We already discussed the type and size of wood panels that will be used here, so lets start cutting! Fist we need to utilize our template for the sides of the cabinet.



      I was able to get both sides to easily fit on a 4ft x 2ft MDF panel.  Quick note, my first template was too small.  Had to reprint it out and do the lines again. Luckily I caught this before cutting began.



      The straight edges that aren't already on the sides were easy enough to cut using a circular saw. The curve was a bit more tricky and required the jigsaw.  I actually made an makeshift bandsaw with my jigsaw attached to a piece of plywood. I felt there was a bit more control involved this way. Either way you decide to do yours, just go slow and you will have good cuts to work with.



      Here are the 2 side panels. Turned out well, but they weren't exactly the same around the curve, so had to bust out the wood file to make them match.



      Using a few clamps I lined up the back and bottom of the panels and used my file to get the two curves as close as possible. You can see in the picture below how much they were off after the initial cutting took place.



      Here is what it looked like after filing, nice and even. After prepping the side panels and evening things out, I also rounded the edges just a tad to make it easier to apply T-molding and to cut back on chipping that is common when using MDF.



      In order to apply T-Molding to these panels, I had to use a 9/16in slot cutting bit on my router.  It was pretty easy, but as always when using a router, things got messy really quick.  Prepare for a lot of saw dust.  Below you can see the nice channel created for the T-molding.



      Now that the side panels are ready to go, it is time to cut out the remainder of the cabinet parts. Although I used 3/4in MDF for the side panels, I went with 1/2in and 1/4in for the rest of the parts to cut down on the weight.  Below you can see the marking on the other 2 panels I had for this purpose. On the left is the 1/2in for the back and monitor panel, on the right the 1/4in for the rest of the cabinet.



      Now that we have the pieces all cut out, its time to drill some holes for the buttons. I laid everything out using a template in Photoshop, and printed it out to make sure everything was lined up correctly. 



      After using the template I measured the center-point of all of the holes, and began the process of drilling them out using a Forster bit. Make sure you have a piece of scrap wood underneath when drilling so you don't tear out the back of the holes. 


      If you look at the templates I posted on the other page, you will notice that some of the pieces have angled cuts.  I was able to adjust the table saw to help with these cuts. You can probably get away with not having angled cuts, but it will make things fit together with smaller seams. 


      After my holes have been drilled in the wood, I used the same template to make markings on the acrylic panel to cover the surface of the controller board. Using my "bandsaw" again, I cut the various pieces of acrylic using a blade made for plexiglass. The acrylic will cover the 
      any part of the arcade that has buttons, as well as the marquee at the top where the light will shine through. 





      After cutting out the acrylic, I wanted to check my measurements one more time before I started drilling again. Using the controller board as my guide, I lined everything up, and checked all of the center-points. After making a few slight adjustments, took the acrylic to the drill press. 


      Using a drill-press is recommended due to the larger diameter of these holes, and ensures a nice, clean hole for your buttons. One word of advise... go slow.  I found out the hard way that if you try and go too fast, its easy to crack the acrylic while drilling. 


      With the acrylic done, have just a few more cuts to go.  First up, need to cut out the opening for the LCD display.  As mentioned before, I measure too small at first, but it was an easy fix.  In addition to the screen panel, I cut an opening in the back panel that will be used later on as an access panel. 



      The last bit of "woodworking" is for the speaker grill. This piece sits directly below the marquee, and the USB speakers I will be using will be mounted on top of this part.  I considered using some kind of metal "mesh" as the grill, but in the end decided to just use a small Forster bit to make my own speaker grill from the existing MDF panel. 



      Took a while to get the measurements marked and all those little holes drilled out, but the end result turned out looking pretty nice.



      Here is a shot of all the cut out parts together.  I did mess up on the monitor panel as I cut the "screen" opening too small.  Luckily going larger isn't an issue, but it looks smaller than it should in the picture below.





      Next up, assembly and painting!