For this project, I had a chance to collaborate a bit with my brother and his buddies at their YouTube channel, How2Man.
I have an IWI SAR Tavor, which is a really fun 5.56 bullpup rifle, and thought it would be great to showcase this weapon for this collaboration video, and use it to destroy a 3D printed object using Tannerite.
I found an excellent STL of a DeathTrooper online, which is basically a Storm Trooper helmet that shows a bit of battle damange, and the skull inside. I increased the size of the print to better allow for us to fill it with around 2lbs of Tannerite.
The entire print took around 36 hours to complete, and once done looked absolutely AWESOME! I was almost sad that we were going to blow it up... almost.
I added a tad of acrylic paint to make the skull more noticeable. Also drilled a small hole in the bottom of the helmet so we could pour tannerite into the hollow portion.
Here is a short video showing the print and a 3D Render of the object.
And here is a longer video showing the process we went through to fill the helmet and detonate it using the Tavor. There is some cool slow-motion in addition from some drone video from my 3DR Solo. Enjoy!
Having received my gimbal a few months ago, I have had a chance to play around with more of the settings that allow me to control the GoPro while in the air via the Solo's Controller. Daytime flying is a breeze, and the ability to change settings without having to land is extremely helpful. The one thing I hadn't tried yet, was shooting at night.
Here is a short video attempting to test out the night shot "mode" on the GoPro Hero 4 Black, using my 3DR Solo Quadcopter Drone and Gimbal. Still need to tweak a few settings, but the foggy night and the lighting of this beautiful structure were too great to pass up.
The actual "Night Mode" toggle was not available (the option was grayed out) via the in-flight controls, so the video is a bit more grainy than I would have liked. But not bad for a first attempt.
I didn't actually mean to get as close as I did at the end of the video. After shooting various angles of the temple, I was satisfied with what I had captured, so I gave the command to the Solo to "Return Home". Typically this works great, the drone goes up to gain altitude to avoid hitting trees or buildings, and returns to where it took off from. Apparently I need to add some additional altitude to that particular setting, because it definitely didn't get high enough to clear the statue atop the steeple (Moroni), and flew VERY close to it during the return flight... but it sure was a great shot!
We had faimly over this week, and my Nephew had his first loose tooth. He was pretty excited about the Solo, and when I jokingly asked if he wanted me to pull it out with the Drone, he was all about it.
After verifying that it was loose enough to proceed, we tied floss around it, and took off! Video of the shenanigans below.
Still waiting for the Gimbals to ship for the Solo, but until then enjoying just flying around and doing fun (although un-stabalized) videos like this.
I have my SOLO! The original Best Buy pre-order still hasn't even shipped yet, but I was able to walk into a local store and pick one up, and then promptly canceled the pre-order. Was also able to grab a spare battery, and some props. No Gimball or Backpack available yet.
Also sold my previous DYI quad on Craigslist. There were a lot of people calling about it, generated more interest than I thought it would.
And now back to the SOLO. Here are some juicy Unboxing pics...
Solo, extra battery and props.
Temporary "travel" case that comes in the box. Not too bad, but I have a hard foam case coming as well.
The inside is put togeher pretty well, good presentation.
Here is the "Smart Battery" showing its current charge level.
Solo from the front. The gimball hasn't been released yet, so using the standard frame to hold the GoPro for now, shakey video and all.
Top shot with all the Quick Release props. Seriously easy to take on and off, no tools required.
Shot from the front with the GoPro Here 4 Black in tow.
Solo, props installed, ready to FLY!
Controller / Transmitter. Can hold smartphones or 8in tablets.
Using my Nvidia Shield tablet for FPV and flight control. Update process for both controller and drone was really using the SOLO app.
Decided to go with the PadHad Hybrid Mini as a sunshade / hood when flying in direct sunlight. Fits the Shield perfectly, and does a great job keeping the glare off of the screen.
Everything is charged, updated, and ready to fly... but I had to go out of town to work. Super excited to fly back home and put the SOLO through its Maiden Voyage!
Will be posting that video soon. Thanks for stopping by.
Last week I was in the process of ordering a few parts that would expand my ability to get better aerial footage with my quadcoper. Was looking at a new frame that was a bit larger to accommodate a few additional components, and the parts required to allow me to do FPV (First Person View).
Made a small order to get me started, that consisted of a few wiring components and the new frame, a Tarot 650 Ironman.
In addition to having more room for components, it also has a folding frame design that allows for easier storage / transportation.
Also has the option for a "Stealth" Canopy that makes is look a bit like a F117.
I ordered everything via AliExpress, so it was pretty inexpensive, but would take a few weeks to get here. I held off on getting any FPV equipment this time around, as I was going to wait until I had the new frame built, and I am very glad I made that choice.
Was pretty excited to change up my current configuration and start on this new project. Then 3DR (3D Robotics) decided to throw me a curve ball, and disrupt my plans. On Monday, April 13th, they announce their new SOLO quadcopter.
I am usually a DYI kind of guy, and love to mod / hack things to my desired specifications. But with the done 3DR has put together, I have decided to abandon the new FPV build, and get the SOLO instead. I was already planning to upgrade my flight controller to the 3DR Pixhawk, but the SOLO has the newer version and all kinds of other goodies. Here are the main things I wanted from a new FPV drone, and the SOLO executes on every one of them.
Ability to use the GoPro I already own for HD videos
FPV capability for better (perspective) video
Ability to Mod or Hack if needed / wanted
Fly by waypoints for specific aerial shots, controlled by phone / tablet
Ability to use "Follow-Me" mode via phone's GPS
Ability to add additional accessories or upgrade parts as needed
Since the SOLO hits all of my "wants", I am going to save time by not building another quadcompter and just purchase the SOLO. It will actaully save me some money as well since I wont have to build / purchase a ground station, being that the controller is made to accommodate a phone or tablet for both FPV and waypoint selection. I have plenty of those laying around.
So now that I have made the decision to get the SOLO, I need to decide what to do with my existing components. I could sell the drone altogether, or maybe convert it into a smaller "FPV Racing" drone, and get a taste for what its like to ride a speeder bike through the forest moon of Endor.
Either way, I am pretty excited with 3DR's announcement, and can't wait to get my hands on one in a few weeks. My wife also agreed that it could be a combined Birthday / Father's Day gift! Gives me a bit of time to see some cool accessories roll out like this awesome foam hard case.
Stay tuned for more details as they are announced. Will also put together the Tarot 650 frame and compare it to my current DJI F450.
After the crash a few weeks ago, I was a bit hesitant to get the drone back up in the air again. But the repairs were simple, and I really need to get more experience with the drone in the air. I also had a neat opportunity to record my kids launching the model rockets they just built.
They each had built their own rocket (with Dad's help), and it was a good excuse to take the drone out again.
Pretty short flight, and only shows 1 of the 2 rockets taking off. After watching this, it is pretty obvious that I need to get a gimbal to help stabilize the video during flight.
Wyatt's (the smaller one) went higher than expected, caught a
good gust of wind once the parachute deployed, and could not be
recovered. He didn't seem to mind, since launching it was worth it for
him. Kianna's did great, and was recovered after their uncle Kaylon ran it down over 1,000m from the launching point. Dang wind...
The first real flight with the newly constructed drone didn't go as well as I had hoped it would.
Things started off pretty well, and I was getting some great shots of my parent's house and surrounding areas. But the drone started to climb too high, and it became very difficult to tell which direction it was flying. I tried to bring it back home, but it seemed to just keep drifting farther away. Then it seems the distance was just too much. I lost connection and saw the drone spiral down to the earth.
I felt like I had been punched in the gut, dwelling the on the possibililty of losing both my drone and GoPro camera in one blow, in rual Franktown, CO.
Here is a video of the entire event. There is good news and more pictures after the video.
I have been practicing on a PC Simulator at home. It is helpful for general flying, but doesn't really portray an accurate simulation when the drone hits really high altitudes. I should have kept things nice an low during my first few flights, but I took the quick route to finding out what NOT NOT to do in the future.
The area where the drone went down is pretty heavy with trees and shrubs, and my first thought was "Its gone." Then I remembered that my GoPro was still transmitting transmitting WiFi signal from using the App on my Phone and Tablet to control various camera functions. We drove around the area looking for a "ping" from the GoPro's WiFi. We finally go a hit, and jumped out on foot to continue the search. I had my tablet, and my brother with my phone, we used the WiFi Analyzer app for Android that allowed us to use the WiFi signal similar to a radar ping. Here is a Screenshot of what it looks like.
After about 10 minutes of searching, we finally recovered the Drone. Luckily we have had heavy rain over the last few days, and the ground is pretty soft. The landing struts were buried about 2 inches into the ground, and there was minimal damage to the Drone overall. Only thing that was broken was one of the booms. Very easy and inexpensive to replace, coming in at $6 to fix.
Overall it was still a fun experience, and a good story to tell. I have also learned the limits of my drone, and will NOT be flying anywhere near that altitude in the foreseeable future. Need to do the repair and it will be back in the air in no time at all.
A GoPro is a very fun addition to this type of project as it can add a very cool component to what the drone can do, which is aerial photography and video. I currently have a GoPro Hero3 Black Edition. These active cameras have a ton of accessories that you can pair up with them, and I had a hard time keeping it all organized. So I picked up a bin from Lowes that is made for screw and nail storage. Turns out it is the perfect size to fit my GoPro and all the accessories.
GoPro Hero 3 Black with Protective Dive Housing
Mini Tripod w/ Camera Mount
Anti-fog inserts, extra LiPo Battery, and WiFi remote USB cable
Skeleton Case Backdoor
LCD Touch Screen Backdoor
Various Mounts and Attachments
Protective Case Backdoor
Standard Case Backdoor
LCD Touch Screen, and WiFi Remote
Lens Protector, other camera protection bits
Adhesive Surface Mounts
Tripod Camera Mount Adapters
Head Strap and Had Clip Mounts
User Manual and floating water attachment
Now I can easily pack around everything I have that is GoPro related, except maybe my “GoPole” and Walking Stick / Monopod. So with this and my Drone Hard-case in tow, it is almost time to head out and FLY!
Instead of trying to type out what I did to setup my KK2.1 Flight Controller, here is a video I shot that explains the whole process, including calibrating the ESCs.
Ok. I am done building the Drone for now, but before I feel comfortable flying it, I need to get better at controlling this type of aircraft. After all the time and money spent on this guy, the last thing I want to do is crash it during my first flight.
One great way to begin learing how to control a Quadcopter is with a Blade Nano QX. These little drones are really fun, and can be safely flown indoors. My kiddos love playing around with this guy as I fly around them, and occasionally do a fake "dive bombing run" towards them, quickly pulling up at the last second.
They can be purchased at many online retailers, but I picked one up at my local Hobby store when it was on sale for a killer price. These are very durable and can take a beating. Very squirrely drone, but an excellent option to learn the basics of multi-rotor flight. I used a $5 hard case from Harbor Freight Tools and some Pick and Pull foam I had left over to make a better carry case.
To get a better feel for the larger drones, I decided to go with the Phoenix R/C Flight Simulator for my PC. I purchased a USB adapter that can plug into my Turnigy 9XR transmitter, so that I can fly a quadcopter drone around on my computer with the same transmitter that I will be using with actual drone. The software works really well, and is very easy to learn once you have set up the transmitter to work with it. My kids picked it up within just a few minuets, and can now fly the various models around like pros.
I have more training to do before I am ready. But soon it will be time for the Maiden Flight!
Now that the Drone is done being built, I need a way to protect this precious gizmo. I looked into hard-cases online from various brands, but most weren't quite the correct size, or were very expensive. So I set out to build my own that would be the perfect size, and save a few $$S in the process.
For the case itself, , this particular model is called the "Stor-It-All Tote" and I went with the one that measures 25"W x 17-1/2"D x 9"H. It also has locking handles for the top lid, and can be purchased for $16 at the Container Store.
Next I picked up some foam "Pick and Pluck" from the FoamFactory. The very bottom / base is simply 1/2in of regular Solid Foam, but the rest of the case is using various thicknesses of the Pluck and Pull foam.
Pluck and Pull is pretty great, and much easier that cutting out parts of a foam block. I used a combination of two (2) 2.5in thick sheets and one (1) 3in thick sheet. Both were the larger size of 24" x 26". I purchased more than I needed for this case, and used it for another project, which I will post soon.
Here is the first layer of Pick and Pull, on top of the solid foam base. You can see where I removed parts to make room for the landing struts and the GoPro camera.
After about an hour of figuring out what peices had to come out to make for a perfect fit, things are looking pretty good. Had plenty of room to fit all parts of the Quad, transmitter, battery charger, extra batteries, and even replacement props.
Another picture of the complted foam hard-case, along with the lockable top. I added foam inserts to the top to keep everytihng nice a secure while in the case. Nothing moves around, and this case does an excellent job of protecting everything inside.
Next up, I will use more of this cool foam for another project.
There is one part of the overall install that I forgot to post, so adding it now. I had to add a UBEC (Universal Battery Elimination Circuit) to power the KK2.1 flight controller and the Reciver. The ESCs and Motors can take the voltage directly from the 3S LiPo battery, but the Flight Controller and Receiver require a lower voltage. So instead of having 2 different batteries (adding unnecessary weight), a UBEC will basically convert the 11.1v output for the 3S battery to 5V to be used with the flight controller.
This particular Turnigy UBCE can accept an input voltage of 6-23v, and output either 5.1V or 6.1V depending on the jumper position, both at 3Amps. This particular model also has a Ferrite Ring for interference reduction. I am using the 5.1v setting for my components.
Since the ESCs draw power directly from the LiPo battery, the Servo Connectors that plug into the Flight Controller are actually only using 1 of the 3 wires which is the signal wire.
So to clean things up, I just took the 2 unused wires out of the 4th connector, and spliced in the Negative / Positive leads from the UBEC. Also made sure to cover the unused connectors with heat shrink tubing to eliminate any possibilities of a short.
Then I just plugged the connector back into the flight controller, and we have power!
Now that we have that out of the way, on to Prop Balancing. This is an important step in building a QuadCopter, especially if you are going to be shooting videos or photography. Unbalanced props can cause small "micro-vibrations" that can make videos have a Jello like effect. Luckily, balancing props is an easy task, only requiring a balancing shaft and some sandpaper. You basically balance the prop on the stand (or even a drinking glass), and if one side dips down, sand a bit off until things even out. Not going to go into much detail here, as there are lots of great tutorials on YouTube if you would like more info. My balancing was pretty easy and took around 15min for all 6 props that I currently have.
Next up we have a cool DYI hard-case storage for your Quad. Stay tuned!
Next I am going to add some LEDs for directional indicators when flying the Quad at night. I purchased 1M LED light strips from Amazon, one in Red the other in Green. Green will indicate the front of the Quad, Red the back. They work off of 12V, so the input of 11.1v from my 3S LiPo battery will work just fine for this purpose. Here we have a few of the pieces of the LED strips cut off and the clear plastic stripped off the ends, ready for solder.
Solder applied to the contact points on the base of the LED strip.
Same as before, but with heat-shrink tubing applied to each lead. They were a bit too close together for comfort, so I wanted to eliminate the chances of a short.
Here is the "daisy-chain" of multiple light strips linked together. They will all come back to one JST connector that will plug directly into the battery.
Quick pic of all the light strips once they have been soldered together and connected to the battery via a JST connector.
LED Light Strips Installed, not turned on.
LED Light Strips Installed, turned on.
LED Light Strips Installed, turned on, with lights off. Looks pretty good. Can't wait to try out some night flying.
Next up I will be binding the Transmitter / Receiver, and setting up the KK2.1 flight controller board for motor direction and various calibration steps.
